Cartier Pasha Quartz/Automatic Watch Review: Seatimer, Chronograph, Steel, Gold, Diamonds,

Cartier Pasha watches immediately stand out due to their unusual design architecture: a pair of lugs that attach to the case horizontally rather than vertically. This main feature, along with several supporting ones, define Pasha as an essentially fashion (avant-guard) watch collection; while such models as Seatimer or Pasha C drift into more sports, or casual directions, 32mm, 42mm, and Miss Pasha emphasize, and even relish the fashion characteristics. As a true fashion luxury brand, Cartier seem to enjoy varying the original layout.

For instance, Pasha watches elaborate on the cabochon crown that became one of the defining components of the Roadster: the resulting piece brings to mind classic steampunk designs. It's an adventurous approach that renders the timepieces a surprising, refreshing combination of sports and elegant traits redolent of long gone, retro chique times. It's perfectly feasible that such times never existed – yet Cartier's strength lies exactly in its capacity to evoke such sensations in our imagination.

Timepieces contain quartz and automatic movements, and employ steel, gold, and titanium metals for the cases and bracelets, and leather and rubber for the straps. The more luxurious watch incorporate diamonds.

Two Pasha lines, Miss Pasha, and 32mm, use precious metals and stones to create memorable, distinct compositions that leave a powerful imprint of style and elegance. The former exhibits a ring of diamonds set on the bezel – a common enough decoration (evident also in Longines Le Grand Classique) that nevertheless looks completely different due to the unusual lug and case relationship. It's as if the light reflects differently from the stones, generating a previously unseen type of sparkle.

32Mm takes a more radical approach, imposing a kind of grid – a golden cage – over the dial, ruling the face into nine parts. Jewelry craftsmanship in this model rivals watchmaking, and elevates the timepieces to a level of art: comparable with Jaeger LeCoultre Haute Joaillerie, Corum Artisan and Ladies, and Audemars Piguet Feminine creations.

At first glance, Pasha appears as a predominantly feminine design. Indeed, the horizontal lugs bordering the case radiate a kind of softness – even fragility – that seems to correspond more with a lady's wrist rather than with a gentleman's.

Yet the larger watches, and in particular Seatimer and Chronograph models, reveal that it's possible to bring out the masculine qualities: the bezel receives several numeral and markers that lend a purposeful, sports orientation, while the chronograph dials produce such a busy dial organization as to almost transform the watch into a sports dedicated instrument.

Overall, Pasha proves to be one of Cartier's most flexible, versatile collections.